The ivory-billed woodpecker,
last seen in 1944 and long assumed to be extinct, is alive and well and
living in Arkansas.
One is, at least.
A male ivory bill was seen by a
lone kayaker on Feb. 11, 2004, in a cypress and tupelo-gum swamp in
northern Arkansas. Since then there have been six other sightings. A
year ago this week, a video camera mounted in a canoe recorded four
seconds of the bird in flight, catching its distinctive white wing
patches. "This is confirmed. This is dead solid confirmed," said John
W. Fitzpatrick, head of the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology and the
lead author of a paper describing the discovery published online
yesterday by the journal Science.
Word of the woodpecker's
survival -- long rumored, never proved -- came at a news conference here
featuring two Cabinet secretaries, two senators, half a dozen biologists
(including one who moved from the Netherlands to pursue the elusive
bird), representatives of several conservation organizations and the
kayaker. They spoke with amazement, ardor and reverence. "I can't begin
to tell you how thrilling it is. It's thrilling beyond words,"
Fitzpatrick said. "The great thing about this discovery is that it
fills us with the hope that just perhaps we did not destroy one of the
most enchanting ecosystems in the United States," said Craig Manson,
assistant secretary of the interior for fish, wildlife and parks. "This
bird has materialized miraculously out of the past but is also a symbol
of the future," said Steve McCormick, president of the Nature
Conservancy.
Few creatures have been more
celebrated by American naturalists or shrouded in mystery as the
ivory-billed woodpecker. Rediscovery of the bird, the subject of one of
John James Audubon's paintings, marks the end of nearly 60 years of
hoaxes, false alarms and frustrating searches. Despite the unambiguous
new report, much mystery remains. The only confirmed sightings have
been of male birds, all in a two-mile radius of the first glimpse in the
Cache River National Wildlife Refuge. Scientists do not know whether it
was the same bird each time.
Thirty scientists are now in
Arkansas's 500,000-acre Big Woods ecosystem -- land intermittently
flooded by tributaries of the Mississippi River -- looking for ivory
bills. The last sighting was Feb. 15. One team recently heard what
sounded like two birds calling to each other but did not see them.
Everyone involved was sworn to secrecy until the Cornell team's analysis
of the sighting and video was written, peer-reviewed and accepted for
publication in a journal. The Interior and Agriculture departments said
they will spend about $15 million on preserving the bird's habitat.
Ivory bills rarely live longer
than 15 years, so there have clearly been breeding pairs as late as the
1990s. Whether any remain is unknown. Young birds stay with their
parents about two years and afterward are not prolific. "If a pair
raises two young in a year, it will be a good year," said Martjan
Lammertink, 33, an evolutionary biologist at the University of Amsterdam
sojourning in the United States. Observations from the 1930s suggest
that a pair needs about 4,000 acres of forest. Because only 10 to 15
percent of the Big Woods system is ideal habitat, it seems likely there
could be, at most, a dozen pairs.
The ivory bill is the largest
woodpecker in North America, about 20 inches in height and with a
wingspan as wide as 33 inches. It has piercing yellow eyes and a white
pattern on its glossy black body that looks like a white heel when the
wings are folded. The male is especially distinctive because of its
brilliant, blood-red crest. The bird has an unusual, nasal toy-trumpet
call. Nancy Tanner, widow of famed Cornell University ornithologist
James J. Tanner, who chronicled his encounters with the vanishing bird
in the 1930s and '40s, once recalled that the ivory bills were nicknamed
"King of the Woodpecker" and "Lord God Bird" because "that's what people
blurted out when they saw the bird."
Tens of thousands of ivory bills
once prowled the nation's southern forests. With their strong necks and
sharp bills, they lived on a hard-to-exploit food source -- the insects
and larvae invading newly dead, but not yet rotten, hardwoods. A
description of ivory bills in a 1917 book noted that at the foot of the
ancient trees, "huge piles of bark and slabs of wood are found which
give convincing evidence of its power as a feathered axman." As the
old-growth bottomlands were logged, the habitat disappeared, and with it
the bird. There were occasional reports of sightings in Texas, Florida,
South Carolina and elsewhere, but invariably they proved impossible to
confirm.
In January 2002, a team of the
world's most experienced bird experts spent a month wading through
35,000 acres of southern Louisiana swamp in hopes of confirming a
reported sighting by a 21-year-old forestry student at Louisiana State
University. The team, organized by LSU, Cornell University and the
Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries, failed to turn up
conclusive evidence. "It was not only like looking for a needle in a
haystack," said James Van Remsen Jr., an ornithologist at LSU, "but a
moving needle in a haystack."
Then Gene M. Sparling, 49, a
red-bearded father of two from Hot Springs, Ark., got lucky. He was on
the second day of a four-day solo paddle through the Big Woods in
February 2004. It was about 1 p.m. and overcast. He was drifting down a
small stream that had flooded the woods. "I had just set my paddle down
and had leaned back in my seat and was thinking what a beautiful,
fantastic, awe-inspiring place this was," he said yesterday.Out of the
treetops came a huge woodpecker, straight at him. It landed on a tree
trunk about 60 feet away. Sparling's camera was in rubber bag on his
lap, but he did not go for it. Instead he looked at the bird and noted
its markings before it moved up the trunk, playing peekaboo with him,
and flew away. For the next two days, Sparling argued with himself. He
knew what he had seen was not a pileated woodpecker -- the ivory bill's
almost-as-impressive cousin -- but he could not believe it was an ivory
bill. When he got home, he wrote up his trip for the Arkansas Canoe
Club's Web site. He described what he had seen but did not name the
bird. Word got around. "I'm here to tell you wonderful amazing things
can happen in this world," Sparling said.
© 2005 The Washington Post Company
Hunt And Peck
The Ivory-Billed Woodpecker Isn't Extinct After All. Just Darn Hard to
Spot.
By William Booth
Washington Post Staff Writer
Wednesday, July 6, 2005; C01

BRINKLEY, Ark.
The air smells like a bowl of pet turtles, funky and ripe. It is a
lovely spot, if you're a venomous serpent. They own the place. The water
moccasins are as fat and sassy as house cats, as thick around as a
toddler's thigh, lounging around like throw pillows. Locals call this
primordial ooze the Big Woods, but the flooded forest feels more like
Big Swamp, covered with greasy brown water that flows through the tupelo
and cypress trees. The beavers, bullfrogs and mosquitoes are loving it.
For 216 days, Tim Barksdale, a world-class nature photographer and
pursuer of birds, sat quietly here in his canoe, watching, waiting.
Sometimes, he'd get out and stand in the muddy waist-deep water, dressed
head to toe in camouflage, peering into the forest with his binoculars
or high-definition video camera. In 2,600 hours in the swamp, he never
saw the ivory-billed woodpecker, though he is pretty sure he heard the
bird -- its staccato double-knock ( POP-pop) -- once.
Barksdale is a rugged, bearded mountain man type from the wilds of
Montana, no stranger to discomfort, happy to spend his nights sleeping
in his truck, his days up to his armpits in mire. But hearing those
milliseconds of woodpecker drumming, just that one taste, he says, "was
electric." A hit of pure delight. It brought him, literally, to tears,
and afterward? He says, "I felt weak."
It is for Barksdale, and his tribe of woodpecker hunters, a kind of
beautiful obsession.
The announcement in late April of the rediscovery of the ivory-billed
woodpecker in the Big Woods of eastern Arkansas -- the first confirmed
sighting in the United States since 1944 -- made headlines around the
globe. "It is the most exciting news of my lifetime," said Steve
Runnels, president of the American Birding Association.
But even for those who wouldn't know a house sparrow from a painted
bunting, there was something amazing about it.
Lost species of obscure slugs and drab lichen get rediscovered all the
time. But this was different. The ivory-billed woodpecker was living,
very, very on the q.t., in our own back yard.
What's weird: It is a hulking, big bird, larger than a raven, dressed in
a flashy black-and-white tuxedo and sporting a pointed red hat like
Jacques Cousteau, a bird that defends its territory by screaming
kent-kent-kent! a call compared to blasts from a child's toy trumpet.
And this bird has been hiding out in a national wildlife refuge, unseen
for 60 years? It's crazy.
Perhaps that's why the code name chosen by the search team for the
woodpecker was Elvis.
"This species just has this nasty habit of disappearing," says Phillip
Hoose, author of "The Race to Save the Lord God Bird." Lord God Bird is
one of the dozen common names for the ivory-billed woodpecker because
those who saw one in the late 19th century were often supposed to
exclaim, "Lord God, what a bird!"
"It's just been so spooky, how hard the bird is to find," says
Barksdale, floating in his canoe through the murk of Bayou de View, not
too far from the spot where the ivory-billed was sighted, the last time
in February. "Somewhere Elvis is out there doing his thing, sitting on a
dead branch, preening and calling, and we cannot find him."
It seems the natural world still holds mysteries for those who tune in,
and a delicious one is this: Why is the ivory-billed woodpecker so
wonderfully, so maddeningly elusive?
Elvis Lives!
On a bright sunny Saturday at the end of May in the little town of
Clarendon, about halfway between Little Rock and Memphis, the locals
hosted their annual Big Woods Birding Festival. But this year, with the
rediscovery, it was all about the woodpecker. They were selling
ivory-billed posters, books and T-shirts that read "Got Pecker?" Penny
Childs would cut your hair to look like a woodpecker for 25 bucks. There
was an Elvis impersonator crooning "don't be cruel." Federal and state
wildlife agents set up tables piled with information about woodpeckers
and how to identify the ivory-billed from its cousin, the relatively
common pileated woodpecker, as phone calls were coming in from around
Arkansas from people who thought they spied an ivory-billed at their
bird feeders (which they almost assuredly did not).
There are high hopes among the Chamber of Commerce types that the
woodpecker rediscovery would draw throngs of bird nuts carrying
telescopes on tripods and fistfuls of cash to the poor Arkansas Delta.
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service was concerned enough about a birder
invasion that the refuge manager posted a couple armed officers at the
Highway 17 bridge, the closest put-in for a canoe and smack dab in the
middle of the two-mile stretch where the sightings have occurred, to
keep the hordes out of the restricted area. Alas, it was not to be: The
birders have (mostly) stayed away.
There are a couple of reasons why: The ivory-billed remains the rarest
of the rare. Incredibly difficult to glimpse in the best of seasons --
the winter months, when the trees are bare of leaves -- and in the
spring and summer, when the swamps explode with green, it is nearly
impossible to find. That, and the consensus among responsible birders is
that the wary woodpecker might need quiet time after its return to the
world stage. The researchers still are not certain whether there is just
one male bird out there -- the last of his species -- or, at best, a few
adult pairs and their young.
'Too Beautiful'
The Birding Festival was a good excuse for the ivory-billed woodpecker
search team to reunite and tell their stories -- a crack SWAT-style team
composed of some of the best birders in the world, under the auspices of
the Cornell University Ornithology Laboratory and the Nature
Conservancy. The Conservancy, a nonprofit environmental organization,
has been working for years to preserve Big Woods habitat, along with
state and federal wildlife agencies, long before anyone even suspected
that an ivory-billed might be lurking out there in 500,000 acres of
forest.
Over at the American Legion Hall, the room was packed to the rafters. On
a table at the front, enclosed in a glass case, was a stuffed
ivory-billed woodpecker, perched on a branch by its taxidermist. It is
the closest to the living bird most people will ever come. The bird's
long bill is a wickedly powerful weapon that it employs, as one
naturalist put it, "to hammer like an angry man with an ax" at the dead
and dying trees while searching for the beetle grubs that live beneath
the bark. The dead bird's eye is big and egg white, and there's a
Z-shaped swoosh of white that runs from its cheek to back, like a
flamboyant mark of Zorro. But there is no vibrancy in the museum
specimen, a kind of sad mummy.
Hoose, author and Nature Conservancy staffer, explains to the audience
that the ivory-billed woodpecker has been elusive from the beginning of
scientific enquiry. The tale he tells makes you feel by turns hopeful
and depressed. Early in the 1800s, John James Audubon, who painted two
portraits of the bird, was already worried about its survival. Indians
coveted its feathers and beak for ceremonial dress, and early settlers
used its body for gunshot pouches. "It was too big, too bold, too
beautiful," Hoose says, for its own good.
But the real end times for the woodpecker began in the
post-Reconstruction era, from the 1880s to the 1940s, when a nation
hungry for timber logged the old woods and everything else along the
rivers of the American Southeast. Once the Mississippi Delta bottomlands
ran from Memphis to the Gulf of Mexico, 60 miles across and many
hundreds of miles long. Gone, gone. Only the seeds and stems remain. But
that is an old story.
Less known is the role that science and fashion played -- as collectors
for amateur naturalists and the nation's foremost museums sought the
last of the last woodpeckers, shooting them for their skins, and hunters
gathered the feathers for the hat trade for the haute couture of ladies
from Boston to Savannah (the so-called Plume Wars, which gave rise to
today's Audubon Society, which was formed to fight the slaughter).
By 1920, the ivory-billed woodpecker was thought to be toast -- a goner
after the extermination of the passenger pigeon (1914) and the Carolina
parakeet (1918). But in 1924, Cornell ornithologist Arthur Allen found a
pair in Florida. After he and his wife left camp, somebody shot the
creatures.
Later, the final redoubt was thought to be a tract of remnant wood in
northeast Louisiana owned by the Singer sewing machine company, where
the "last" population was studied, first by Allen in 1935, and then by
his protégé, the young and dogged James Tanner, who did the intensive
fieldwork that today forms almost the entire corpus of knowledge about
the bird and its lifestyle. (Turn-ons: beetle larvae and fast flight.
Turn-offs: lumber companies and swamp drainers.) The Singer Tract was so
wild and woolly and the woodpecker there so precious that earlier
conservationists appealed to Congress to turn the place into a national
park. It was not to be. The Chicago Mill and Lumber Co. mowed it down to
make ammunition crates and caskets in World War II.
In April 1944, Don Eckelberry, who illustrated the early Audubon field
guides, trekked to the Singer Tract and saw what the scientific
community long assumed was the last bird, a lone female, calling for a
mate that was no longer there. Eckelberry nailed the essence of the bird
in his description: "She came trumpeting into the roost, her big wings
cleaving the air in strong direct flight, and she alighted with one
magnificent upward swoop. Looking about wildly with her hysterical pale
eyes, tossing her head from side to side, her black crest erect to the
point of leaning forward, she hitched up the tree at a gallop."
One of the kids who had accompanied Eckelberry to the site later
returned. The roost tree, he recalled, had blown down in a wind storm.
And the curtain went down on the ivory-billed. Or so we thought.
Knock, Knock
Of course, there were rumors, glimpses, mirages. They thought the bird
might have reappeared in the Big Thicket woods in east Texas, but
reports were never substantiated. On April Fool's Day in 1999, a
20-year-old forestry student said he saw the bird while out hunting in
the Pearl River Wildlife Management Area north of New Orleans, which
sparked a widely publicized search there in 2002, sponsored by the
binocular manufacturer Zeiss, and . . . nada.
Encouraging double-knocks picked up by researchers' sophisticated
microphones on the Pearl were later shown to be not woodpecker drums but
rifle blasts. "It was like chasing a ghost," says David Luneau, an
expert birder and obsessed ivory-billed chaser, as well as a professor
at the University of Arkansas, who participated in the Zeiss hunt and
later, the successful one in the Big Woods.
And so it went -- chasing ghosts -- until the afternoon of Feb. 11,
2004, when a shiitake mushroom farmer from Hot Springs named Gene
Sparling was slipping through the Bayou de View woods in his kayak. By
his own admission, Sparling is a novice at bird identification. "It was
just a wonderful sublime moment of contentment, just in awe, feeling
like I was the luckiest person in the world, for just being there,"
Sparling recalls. "And just then this large woodpecker came into view.
My god, that's the largest pileated woodpecker I've ever seen. Flared
its wings, landed on the base of a tree. Sixty feet away. Long neck, red
crest with a particularly fine point. Thing I noticed most was that the
back was white, parchment white, and he seemed particularly animated. He
gave several quick jerks, and flew away, his profile was long and
straight, rather than undulating. I thought, could that be the
ivory-billed woodpecker? But no, they were extinct. And have been all my
life."
But Sparling posted an obscure note on a canoe Web site, which wound its
way to the odd couple of Tim Gallagher, editor of Living Bird magazine
at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, and Bobby Harrison, a photography
professor at Oakwood College in Alabama. Gallagher, lean and Yankee, and
Harrison, Falstaffian and as Southern as grits, had been traveling
around the swamps for years, tracking down rumors of ivory-billeds.
After speaking with Sparling, they were back with him in the Big Woods
on Bayou de View within the month. On their second day out, eureka. "We
both cried out simultaneously, IVORY BILL!" Gallagher writes in his book
"The Grail Bird."
Under the auspices of the Cornell bird lab and the Nature Conservancy, a
search was launched in April 2004 to document the finding. Absolute
secrecy was required, they felt, or the place would be inundated with
thousands of birders, or worse, they would be laughed out of academe as
just another false report. Members of the team (which would number about
50 part-timers and 30 full-time) were required to sign confidentiality
agreements. Once on site at Brinkley, they even moved out of their
motels, fearful that the locals would suspect something was up (after
all, it was duck season, and nobody in the Elvis search team was
carrying shotguns; the Nature Conservancy bought them an old house).
Some of the best birders in the world went after the ivory-billed
equipped like a NASA mission to the moon, slogging through the swamps of
the Cache and White River national wildlife refuges and state lands,
loaded with cameras, telescopes, recordings of the bird calling (made in
1935 and used to entice a response). They placed super-sensitive
listening devices in the trees and recorded thousands of hours of swampy
blurps and cackles and groans. They hunted for nests and roosts and
signs of stripped bark. They were up in airplanes and used satellite
data, searching for what they thought (from the Tanner papers of the
1940s) would be prime habitat.
Showing a reporter around the swamp, Martjan Lammertink of the
University of Amsterdam and Cornell, a recognized authority on large
woodpeckers (the extinct Imperial in Mexico and the living Great Slaty
in Indonesia), came back to the same puzzle: How can Elvis be so
elusive?
Lammertink never saw one. Lord God, he tried.
Neither did the head of the expedition, John Fitzpatrick of Cornell.
Neither did any of the members of Cornell's crack birding team known as
the Sapsuckers. In all, the searchers, drawn from across the country,
were out there 240 days, which equals more than 3,000 "person days" of
observation.
What did they get? Seven sightings.
There were no recordings of the kent call. Maybe a couple of
double-knock drummings (other woodpeckers also peck bark, and the woods
here contain not only ivory-bills, but hairy, red-bellied, pileated,
red-headed, downy and sapsucker woodpeckers).
Lammertink estimates that in 2005 the chances of a trained observer
seeing an ivory-billed woodpecker on any given day is 1 in 1,013.
So, good luck.
They did get four seconds of blurry video, which was shot almost by
accident by Luneau and had to be analyzed for months, in slow-motion and
freeze-frame, like the Zapruder film of the Kennedy assassination, but
which is the best documentation so far and was used to support their
paper in April in the journal Science. (In an ideal world, there would
be a crisp photo or clear video, but nobody's been able to get either
yet.)
"I don't know why we can't find the bird more consistently," Lammertink
says. His best guess: the ivory-billed woodpecker is flying long
commutes, looking for its dead trees stuffed with beetles, and they're
seeing him, and maybe her, as they make their way back and forth,
through a narrow stretch of swamp. There's 500,000 acres out there. The
team has searched only a fraction of it. But even so, Lammertink says
the whole Big Woods might be able to support only a dozen adult pairs
and their young, which would explain how they remain the rarest of the
rare.
But there is some good news. The wildlife refuges of the Big Woods are
growing; each year there are more acres set aside and the trees grow
older, bigger, more beetley. The habitat improves, ever so slowly. So
the ivory-billed woodpecker, with its hysterical eyes, maybe has a shot.
Or not. It has fooled us before.
© 2005 The Washington Post Company